Day three of London Collections Men started with celebrated designer J.W. Anderson at 10:00, followed by fashion week heavyweights Margaret Howell, Joseph, Pringle of Scotland, Dunhill and Moschino. Sunday was a packed day of shows, presentations, private views and showrooms. Here is a list of some of our favourites:
You can never accuse Ms Howell of straying far from her signature
aesthetic. This season Howell proposed a distinctly British collection of
high-waisted trousers, neck scarves, knits, macs and duffle coats. Wardrobe
items that become staples instead of whimsical, trend-led fashion. The
Margaret Howell label shows integrity in its aspiration to create something
more permanently, even if from a fashion perspective we occasionally have a
sense of deja vu from her presentations.
Though not so this time. While this collection is classic ‘Howell,’ such as
beautiful wools and cashmeres, in her staple colours of navy, greys and
taupes, it was also strongly directional. Trousers, worn high-waisted,
cinch-backed and pleated, were the highlight. Bold, slouchy jumpers were
worn tucked in. There were also immaculate corduroy jackets, duffle coats
and navy crewnecks. Minimalist, modern and never overly-designed, this was
a collection of real clothes, a refreshing presentation in a sea of
over-the-top London menswear.
One of the Savile Row houses that has taken to created casual, easy to wear
pieces over the past few years, the Richard James show is always abundant
with much more than just perfectly cut suiting. The AW16 collection took
its inspiration from the London Docklands of the 1930s, so there was an
overriding sense of sturdiness to the collection.
The colour palette was subdued, greys, deep navys, creams, bottle greens,
but there was the occasional pop of colour in tie-dyed knitwear,
reminiscent of the House’s bright SS16 collection, and teal suiting. As
with so many other collections this weekend, there wasn’t a skinny trouser
leg in sight, and double breasted jackets, nip in tight at the waist, were
matched with loose, wide legged bottoms.
The casual looks that featured dark denim, big roll neck sweaters and wide
lapelled overcoats were supremely wearable, as were those with donkey
jackets and slouchy trousers, but perhaps unsurprisingly, the best looks
were the suits. A wonderful double breasted, pleated trouser number in
camel-coloured window pane check, and then again in classic Prince of
Wales, were the standouts for me, and it was offered in off white, charcoal
chalk stripe too. A smaller, quieter collection than last season, but still
one full of things you’d want to wear.
Baartmans and Siegel revised the 70s with their AW16 collection. The
self-confessed ‘modern traditionalists’ looked to the fur coats and
oversized eyewear as inspiration. Golden Years’. ‘Spanish Harlem’.
‘Concrete’. ‘Hoodrat’. All words picked out big on the shownotes for the
Dutch-English design duo Baartmans And Siegel, who chose New York 1976 as
the inspiration for their AW16 show.
A knockout marriage of street style and glam eveningwear, this collection
(with women’s preview) reflected the disparate tribes of Harlem and Studio
54, certainly apt on the day of David Bowie’s death. Highlights included a
beautifully embroidered suede bomber jacket, double-breasted chalk stripe
tailoring, and a seriously amazing fox fur coat. Trousers were loose and
cinched, while handmade optics brand F.A.N Optics created magnificent
sparkly Bakelite sunglasses.
There is always a sense of wonder and curiosity about a McQueen show, and
Sarah Burton’s menswear, like her womenswear, has a profound otherworldly
quality to it. Though the majority of garments in her AW16 show for
Alexander McQueen, which was shown in the imposing surrounds of the Foreign
office, were military inspired – tailored frock coats, skirted jackets with
epaulettes and loose trousers with blood stripes dominated – there was
plenty of embroidery in the form of butterflies and gilded floral patterns
which added an ethereal charm. Trousers were loose, boots and lace-ups were
chunky and winter-ready.
Images:Margaret Howell, Richard James, Baartmans and Siegel, Alexander McQueen AW16