Fausto Puglisi debuts at Pitti Uomo 90

The backdrop of Florence’s rich art history seemed the perfect launchpad
for Fausto Puglisi’s Pitti Uomo debut. The Italian designer combined his
womenswear Resort alongside his first men’s Spring Summer 2017 collection
and unveiled both in a disused train station. Puglisi’s design signatures
are color-blocking, bias cuts, metal appliqués and hand embroideries, many
of which he unapologetically combines in one look.

Puglisi is a maximalist, a bold designer who’s tone strikes a similar chord
to Italy’s often ‘molto sexy’ approach to fashion. For women that entailed
short party dresses with bold florals, embellished pleats and studded
accessories, all layered with plenty of ornate jewelry and thigh-high
floral leg covers. For men that meant mostly naked torsos with leather
shorts and Roman gladiator sandals.

Still, the strength of the collection was perhaps not in its embellishment
and over-styling, but in taking out the simpler pieces which would work
well on their own, such as a pretty blue and rose floral dress from look
ten (sans jewelry, sans leg covers), or a silk bomber jacket with utility
stripes and gold trims, best worn without the leather studded skirt,
leather studded leg covers and leather studded bra top. These are hero
pieces that presumably keep his retailers happy, which incidentally
includes impressive wholesale channels such as Bergdorf Goodman and
Selfridges.