Streetwear label Vetements, best known for its cult DHL t-shirts and
oversized hoodies, is taking the concept of collaboration to a whole new
level. The Parisian ‘design collective’ has caused another ripple within
the industry by teaming up with not one, not two, but 18 different fashion
brands for its spring/summer 2017 collection.
Set to be shown in Galeries Lafayette, in Paris next Sunday, the collection
will incorporate designs from 18 establish labels including the likes of
Levi’s, Dr. Martens, Reebok as well as Manolo Blahnik, Mackintosh and Comme
des Garçons. Each brand has been asked to create a Vetements inspired spin
on items which have become signature to the brand itself, which together
form the entire collection. So think evening gowns made from hot pink
velour from Juicy Couture, deconstructed silhouettes from Manolo Blahnik
and wrinkly, oversized suit jackets from Brioni.
The collaborative design idea sits well in line with the brand, which is
the brain child of a group of semi-unknown designers led by Georgian
designer Demna Gvasalia. According to the designer, the idea for the
collaborating with multiple brands at the same time stemmed from his
experience of manufacturing Vetements jeans in factories in Italy, as
Gvasalia felt they never looked “100 percent authentic.” When the brand
decided to bump the show date up from September to July, Gvasalia thought
it would be simpler to handle the shorter production time if they enlisted
several collaborators.
“The idea was always to take the iconic, the most recognizable product from
their brand, and put it into a Vetements frame, whether in terms of shape
or construction,” said Gvasalia in an interview with the Cut. Vetements
supplied all the designs, using the authentic fabrics from each brands and
their factories oversaw the production. However, although Vetements
is working with such a large number of collaborators, they were decided to
keep Vetements iconic shapes and silhouettes for the collection.
“For me, it’s a kind of season which is the end of one chapter for the
brand and the beginning of another,” added Gvasalia, who hopes that
Vetements will be able to continue its design relationships with a number
of the brands after the show.
Photo: Vetements, AW16