Euro 2016 might have
just ended, but the next fashion designer in our Graduate to Watch series,
James Geraghty was inspired by football supporters’ devotion to their teams
with his statement football-themed collection.
Centring around the theme of obsession, Geraghty’s striking menswear
collection was a highlight during Graduate Fashion Week, and FashionUnited
caught up with him to discuss how he reworked classic men’s tailoring into
his designs, why interning is so important, as well as his advice for
studying in fashion.
Why did you want to be a fashion designer?
“I always knew I was more creative than academic, I started off studying
graphics at school and college but I wasn’t too good at it. I gave textiles
a shot because I could sew and have been doing so since I was about
7 and ended up loving it. After that, I went onto to doing an
art foundation which made me realise even more that it was indeed fashion
that I really wanted to pursue.”
What was the inspiration for your graduate collection?
“My graduate collection was inspired by an interest in branding. The
relationship between football fans and their team was a perfect way to
illustrate how branding can shape someone’s life completely. It focuses on
the positive side of football rather than hooliganism
– appreciating passion and celebrating branding, something which is often
put in a bad light.
“Mainly, I really wanted the whole collection to feel lighthearted in
nature, a bit like how Moschino are doing things now. Fashion is too
‘serious’ sometimes.”
What fabrics/techniques did you use?
“All of the fabrics used were classic men’s tailoring fabrics, lots of
Italian wools, suitings, and classic English shirting. Pretty much all of
my fabrics were from classic cloth merchants, like Crescent Trading in
Shoreditch. When I tell people that they’re all classic fabrics, they
always act so surprised, which in a way makes me happy. I wanted to work
with them in new ways.
“I played with the shirting fabrics but changing the stripe direction,
playing with the bias to create comfortable fits. The shirts in my
collection also use the selvedge scraps to create a football scarf fringing
like effect in all the seams.
“All of the football scarves were knitted for me at Kingston University
on the Shima digital knitting machine. I used acrylic yarn for the football
scarves, I thought it was really important to keep the scarves as close to
a life like product as possible, keeping really true to my original
inspiration. Because no football fan swans around in a Merino or alpaca
wool scarf, at least not the ones I was looking at.”
What are the signature piece/pieces?
“I have to say a Gezza football scarf and the top made completely out of
scarves. That piece has kind of gone a bit crazy with stylists, so much so
I’ve had to make a second one.”
Did you enjoy your Graduate Fashion Week experience?
“Graduate Fashion Week feels like so long ago now, it’s been a bit of a
whirlwind ever since. But all in all, yeah it was amazing. It was crazy to
see some people I’ve admired for so long posting pictures of my stuff on
their Instagram and blogs – even if they spelt my name wrong, although it’s
written on every garment.”
Why did you choose to study at Kingston University?
“I chose Kingston because of the internship opportunities mainly in the
second year. They only allow paid positions where you actually design on
some level, which really is what interning should be about. It’s a step in
the right direction as far as how attitudes towards skilled interns should
be treated, in my opinion.”
What was the most valuable thing you learned on your
course?
“Probably, to just keep going. Keep pushing your work and trying a bit
harder. I think the industry would say the most valuable thing would be how
to do a brill technical pack.”
What do you wish you had been told before you started your
degree?
“That you’re still going to have to write a dissertation on an art
course, and you’ll need to take out a bank loan to buy a pint in
London.”
What are your plans now that you’ve graduated?
“I’m currently interning at a brand on Savile Row, trying to learn more
about craftsmanship and design styles that will help me in the future to
sculpt my aesthetic. After I’d love to do a Masters course, maybe at the
Royal College of Art or Westminster’s new course specifically for
Menswear.”
What advice would you give someone considering studying
fashion?
“I’d tell them to work hard, but still have fun so you don’t end up
suffocating. I’d let them know that people studying courses like English
probably won’t understand your choice of course or how hard you need to
work, but it’s okay. I’d tell them to do you, go with your gut, listen to
your tutors enough but not too much, neoprene has had its day and finally
get paid when you work.”
What designers/labels do you most admire?
“I really love Ximon Lee, Juun J and Xander Zhou. There’s something
about Asian brands and designers that’s just really cool. I really love
Jeremy Scott’s stuff for Moschino and Fendi Homme. Strange mix.”
Have you undergo any design placements?
“I’ve completed placements in New York, London, and Cape Town. I learnt
loads in New York working at Banana Republic. It’s a whole other side to
the industry that’s normally considered boring, but no one day was ever the
same. I learnt a tremendous amount about fabrics, manufacturing,
networking, research and development and making good decisions as a
designer.
“In London, I’ve worked with multiple brands that show at LCM and LFW.
Those taught me how to source good trimmings and fabrics in my city. They
taught me how to sew better, and how to pull a great all-nighter.”
Images: courtesy of James Geraghty