INTERVIEW Graduate Fashion Week
showcases the very best fashion students from the most influential and
inspiring universities around the world, and it has become known as a
platform for the promotion of new talent to watch, one of which was Jessica
Bachmann from the Manchester School of Art.
Bachmann’s attention to detail, use of texture and her ability to team
couture-like tailoring with streetwear made her graduate collection,
inspired by childhood memories standout. FashionUnited caught up with her
to discuss what made her want to work in fashion, her inspiration and
Graduate Fashion Week experience, and what makes Manchester a great place
to study fashion.
Why did you want to be a fashion designer?
“I have always wanted to be an artist. It just happens to be fashion I
can express myself the most with and tell my stories. I was studying
restoration and conservation of fine art and design objects in Germany
before I came to do fashion design. Surrounded by paintings and artists
that express their emotions and visions in such a beautiful way I wanted to
be one of them.”
What was the inspiration for your graduate collection?
“The inspiration for my graduate collection is melancholy and childhood
memories. I was collecting ideas and developed everything within my
sketchbook. Doing lots of illustrations and layouts, I wanted my designs to
have the same mood and look of rawness and originality as my sketchbook.
“The original shape ideas come from school pinafores and hospital gowns.
The collection is about remembering the childishness you never wanted to
give up even as an adult and being proud of being just you, and so it has a
lot of my own character in it.
“My designs are tailored and have a touch of couture mixed with
streetwear. The print on my garments (which are actually embroidered) is
inspired by a spray painter of my hometown in Germany (Harald Naegeli).
There is a huge art scene in Düsseldorf. It is almost impossible not to be
influenced by it as a creative person.”
What fabrics/techniques did you use?
“Most of the fabrics I used are made by me. The techniques I used
resemble the illustrations I created. Because I used lots of white fabric I
wanted to give the material a new surface structure and feel to the body. A
few of the textiles are created with the princess pleater. This machine
creates pleats by running threads through the fabric which are attached
onto curved needles.
“Even plain white cotton in my collection has a beautiful-kitschy
glitter effect when you get close enough. I found this one unique machine
which was saved from an old fabric factory. It made a beautiful cross
stitch and created a gap in-between two fabric pieces I was joining
together. It reminded me of hospital stitching.”
Why was it important for your brand/collection to be sustainable?
“Within my collection I also recycled fabrics. I joined rest fabrics to
create a new textile for my designs. All my trousers and skirts are made
out of this up-cycled fabric. You nee to think about how much waste you
make and how you can reduce this to a minimum. My generation takes very
much into account what damage they do by buying products. Maybe for many
this has to do with a feel of loss of identity and what you stand for in
today’s society. Buying sustainable products is easily given to you today
and the buyer doesn’t have to dedicate much of his own effort and time into
it.”
What are the signature piece/pieces?
“My collection has six looks in total which I showed at GFW this year.
Seeing the dresses during the show, especially combined with the headpieces
presented truly the effortless beauty and fun I was going for.”
Did you enjoy your Graduate Fashion Week experience?
“During GFW I was nominated for the textile award and it was good to
speak to the industry. I think everyone just enjoyed going to the different
design shows and seeing and connecting again with people you once worked
with during an internship.”
Why did you choose to study at Manchester School of Art?
“Being from Germany and growing up bilingual (German, English) I
definitely wanted to go abroad. Fashion design in the UK is supported very
different compared to Germany. The British system values your freedom of
creativity in fashion far more. Manchester School of Art is a very well
equipped University. You can truly figure out which way you want to go as
designer.”
What was the most valuable thing you learned on your course?
“Being a mature and self-driven student really helped me get
successfully through these three years. It also helped me to connect with
my tutors and understand their views on things. You should listen to them
and value them sharing their experiences with you.”
What do you wish you had been told before you started your degree?
“I have to smile thinking about this question. My twin sister studied
fashion design as well, I in Manchester and she in Edinburgh. She started
her degree two years before me so I kind of knew what I was getting into.”
What are your plans now that you’ve graduated?
“I recently won the 14-18 Now Fashion and Freedom design competition.
One of my designs is showcased at Manchester Art Gallery next to designs
from Vivienne Westwood and Holly Fulton. The exhibition will move to the
Victoria and Albert Museum in London next year, which I am looking forward
to.
“The thing right now I am doing is to get a design job and work
experience. Finishing an MA study would be a great thing to do as well in
the future because you can really experiment while studying.”
What advice would you give someone considering studying fashion?
“I would say the greatest advance is being you, trusting yourself, your
ideas, and interests and staying mentally strong. In the end, you are
trying to sell your character, which is making most of your projects
successful. Studying fashion is an emotionally hardcore challenge, because
you will continuously be judged and criticised, which is honestly a great
luxury and helps you out whilst studying. But it’s hard.
“You also should know studying fashion is expensive. You really need to
be smart with your money and calculate not to run out of it near the end. I
saw a lot of my classmates with great talent dropping out because of this.
“But in the end, I feel if you are having success with your designs,
fashion is one of the most rewarding fields of study you can do.”
What designers/labels do you most admire?
“I desire designers who can tell stories. I see fashion as a form of art
because it is very emotional to me and it makes you connect with your
surroundings. I like garments which look effortless, not overcomplicated,
but have a lot of labor and beauty put into them.”
Did you undergo any design placements?
“Back in Düsseldorf I used to work for Kaethe Maerz a young
eco-friendly, very sustainable and transparent women’s wear label. Being a
part of Katrin’s design process and being taught “making skills” directly
from her and her team and their trust in me and my work made me feel
confident. I experienced how lovely it can be when people take care of each
other within a team and put much value into the production of their
individual garments.”
Images: courtesy of Jessica Bachmann