UK design star Anderson mines influences to dazzle London

British design whiz kid Jonathan Anderson led
the charge on the second day of London Fashion Week Saturday with a
celebration of individualism that fused inspirations including the natural
world, the military and far-eastern tradition.

British fashion mainstays Jasper Conran and Julien McDonald had
earlier set
the tone with shows that mixed the spectacular with the sensible, but it was
2015 designer of the year Anderson who was the hottest ticket in town.

The 30-year-old Northern Ireland designer, renowned for his innovative
creations, played on recurring motifs in his autumn/winter 2016 collection,
which was unveiled under the close gaze of Vogue chief Anna Wintour and
British It-Girl Alexa Chung.

A photo posted by J.W.ANDERSON (@jw_anderson) on Feb 20, 2016 at 11:40am
PST

Anderson, creator of the J.W.Anderson label, made repeated use of
leather
cowls unzipped over the shoulders, A-line tops, skirts with upturned rubber
tricolour hems and chiffon sleeves that billowed at the elbow to produce the
distinctive angular silhouettes for which he has become celebrated.

Each seat along the narrow winding catwalk had a card carrying a
quote from
late interior designer David Hicks, which read: “The excitement of today is
the freedom of the individual to make his own choice and the vast range of
possibilities from which he may choose.”

Anderson expressed the maxim by exploring a wide range of textiles and
influences in the collection, which included Japanese kimonos reimagined in
heavy materials, rock ‘n’ roll leather-and-studs and nature-inspired skirts,
comprised of fragile material petals.

A photo posted by J.W.ANDERSON (@jw_anderson) on Feb 20, 2016 at 11:32am
PST

Other themes included studded flowers, quilted leather jackets,
dazzling
shoes covered in reflective diamond-shaped scales, shocking neon paired with
two-tone dresses and militaristic olive-drab underneath fur hoodies.
The use of fur caused headlines Friday when nearly-naked animal-rights
protesters gate-crashed the event’s opening.

Conran return to classics

Earlier Saturday, Julien McDonald added a dash of flamboyance to London
Fashion Week with an explosion of sequins and feathers inside a
deconsecrated,
gothic church in central London.
Other works included skin-tight jumpsuits, disco-inspired silver dresses
and sweeping floor length gowns.

The Welsh designer also revealed a sneak preview of his new
childrenswear
collection, which is set to hit the high street within months.
Jasper Conran presented a more classical collection, marked by bold
prints
and traditional tailoring. The 56-year old revealed he had taken
inspiration from architecture and
art, reflected in the collection’s clean lines and symmetry.

Highlights on Sunday include grand dame of British fashion Vivienne
Westwood, Paul Smith, High Street giant Topshop Unique and the homecoming of
iconic label Alexander McQueen after a decade away.
British fashion and leather goods brand Mulberry, under the direction of
new creative director Johnny Coca, is also returning to the London catwalk
for
the first time since 2013.

Many of the shows will be streamed live across Britain on 60 outdoor
screens, including a giant one in London’s Piccadilly Circus, reaching a
potential audience of 35 million, according to organisers.

The event was once considered the poor relation of the international
fashion circuit, but its rise has tracked Britain’s growing fashion
industry,
which now supports almost 800,000 jobs.
Sales of womenswear in Britain hit 27 billion pounds (38.5 billion
dollars, 34.5 billion
euros) in 2015, a figure predicted to grow 23 percent by 2020. (AFP)