London – As is the case with most fashion weeks, the assemblages seen on the runway
are best analysed, layer by layer, as there are so many styles and themes
presented to make sense of what designers propose. There is a collective
individualism to fashion this decade, where the options are never-ending
and an anything-goes-attitude surpasses trendy fashion. Nevertheless, there
are visible trends and movements, that if carefully dissected, can be
absorbed into a woman’s wardrobe in whichever manner makes sense to her.
Over the course of four fashion weeks in four major cities we have seen a
myriad of exciting new colours, silhouettes and themes from which to draw
inspiration, of which the highlights of the best shows can be seen .
A theme of New Romanticism is brought forward from the London and Milan
shows, as seen at Dior and Alexander McQueen. Both femininity and nostalgia
play a key role, with a focus on the art of luxurious craftsmanship and
attention to detail. Designers reference past history, projecting it into
the future with a modern and slightly unravelled approach.
A more-is-more direction was cultivated on the Paris catwalks, with Louis
Vuitton, Dries van Noten and Rochas offering bold and extravagant ideas.
Metallic shimmering jacquards and overtly embellished pieces evoke the
excess of the 1980s. Oversized silhouettes are imbued with rich and
unexpected colour combinations and embellishment.
The 90s are undeniably back, but it’s references to club culture, like
Saint Lauren’t grungy princesses, which capture the new wave for spring
summer 16. Here we see a tougher street style influence mixed with sequins,
furs and metallics to celebrate the glamorous disco scene.
But fashion wasn’t all loud, all of the time on the Paris catwalks. There
was a subdued minimalism present, as seen in the sporty-chic ensembles at
Stella McCartney and Hermes, or the deconstructed silhouettes at Rick Owens
and Iris van Herpen. Designers focus on a more abstract, deconstructed
silhouette through layering and precise cutting. Here the shape and cut
become crucial, without a distraction of print or add-ons to deflect from
the garment.
Lingerie made a return this season, with boudoir dressing seen at many
designer shows. Dior gave us matching knickers and camisoles in cotton
organdie, Celine slip dresses, Saint Laurent slip dresses under furry
coats, Balenciaga showed streetwear lingerie and Chloe gave us lace
delicates. These sophisticated undergarments came in the form of soft silks
and shimmering satins trimmed with delicate lace, many of which will be
worn as dresses, be it by those not body-conscious.
There was a futurist sport element seen in Paris, culminating with the
Louis Vuitton show, where designers have adopted the shifts in lifestyles
and day-to-day dress codes to present us with thoughtful wardrobes and not
just red-carpet styling. Here there is a dynamic play on textures and cut
and spliced prints, graphics and embellishments and luxurious fabrics to
add both a refined and futurist sportiness.