Copenhagen Fashion Summit: Making Sustainability ‘Sexy’

London – The social and environmental issues within the fashion
industry are well established. The industry knows that it needs to clean up
its act and take responsibility to work sustainably for the sake of the millions of workers it
employs, as well as the future of the planet and its resources, (not to
mention the future of the business itself!) Change is desperately needed
within the fashion industry, but unfortunately, change is not going to
happen over night. “For an industry created around the idea of change, it
is interesting to see how behind the curtains the fashion industry is
actually one of the most industries persist to change,” mused Edward
Gribbin, industry veteran and President of Alvanon to FashionUnited.

A photo posted by Copenhagen Fashion Summit (@copenhagenfashionsummit) on May 13, 2016 at 7:56am PDT

However, those persist to change and unwilling to adapt are unlikely to
thrive and continue to grow in the future. “We are missing a real
understanding of the gravity of the situation,” warned Imran Amed, founder
and CEO of Business of Fashion at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit, in Denmark last Thursday.
“Change will not happen until everyone understands this.” Addressing the need to
change and educating the industry on why it needs to change and the sense
of urgency behind it, were a few of the many subjects discussed during the
one day conference dedicated to sustainability. However, the very phrase
itself remains somewhat of a oxymoron, a conundrum within the industry,
something seen as unappealing to consumers and unattractive as well as
costly to manufacturers.

Excited to be speaking at the #CopenhagenFashionSummit. Though still think sustainable fashion is an oxymoron. We need a better term.

— Vanessa Friedman (@VVFriedman) May 12, 2016

Sustainable fashion has become a ‘cliche’

“Sustainable fashion is almost a cliche now,” added Amed during the panel
‘The Power of the Media’. “You shouldn’t say it, it does not
sell…consumers want beauty. But I think it is time to educate consumers
that good design is sustainable.” For years sustainable fashion has been
seen as something unappealing in the eyes of the majority of consumers,
placed on the same level as tie-dyed hemp t-shirts and rainbow, woollen
socks – hippish, weird and certainly not desirable. But if sustainability
and innovation are to become the new norms within the industry than this
misconception needs to be addressed on both a consumer and manufacturer
level. “Responsible fashion is many things. It’s worthy, it’s important,
it’s complicated, it’s challenging, it’s necessary – but it is not sexy,”
pointed out Vanessa Friedman, fashion director and critic at the New York
Times in her talk ‘Sex and Sustainability’. So how do you make
sustainability sexy?

Panel debate: “The Power of Media” @MonitaRajpal @vogueaustralia @VOGUEIndia pic.twitter.com/Rb1hPGZA1s

— CPH Fashion Summit (@CphFashSummit) May 12, 2016

One of the main ways brands and retailers can make the message and
importance behind sustainability seem more attractive is through
storytelling.”When it comes to consumers the talk needs a little work,”
noted Friedman. At the moment most of the communication surround
sustainability tends to get bogged down by technical and boring phrases,
according to Friedman, who stressed that the industry needed to work
innovatively in terms of communication regarding sustainable fashion.
“Fibers, exciting. Factories, ooh. Waste – I get chills, you do too right?”
Although these issues and areas are incredibly important to the industry,
most consumers simply are not interested in which factories their clothing
was made or what happened to the waste – just as long as it was produced in
a safe and ethical way. “It’s as if everyone thinks that by dressing up the
industry initiatives in complicated verbiage and scientific references the
weightiness of the subject, the importance with it needs to be taken is
made clear,” she added.

A photo posted by Copenhagen Fashion Summit (@copenhagenfashionsummit) on May 14, 2016 at 1:32am PDT

Sustainability is missing the ‘pop culture pitch’

“But the truth is that there is too much explanation and too little
dramatization,” she stressed. Which is surprising for an industry known for it drama and
flair. “It’s time to figure out the pop culture pitch.” For example,
actress Emma Watson managed to stir up quite the media frenzy with her
custom-made Calvin Klein ensemble for the Met Gala earlier this year. But
what people did not realise until later on was that her outfit, consisting
of a train, trousers and bustier were part of Livia Firth Eco Age Green
Carpet Challenge – which meant that her outfit was made using the GCC
Principles for Sustainable Excellence. “The body of the gown is crafted
from three different fabrics, all woven from yarns made from recycled
plastic bottles,” wrote Watson on her Facebook page. “Plastic is one of the
biggest pollutants on the planet. Being able to repurpose this waste and
incorporate it into my gown for the #MetGala‬ proves the power that
creativity, technology and fashion can have by working together.” This is a
clear example of how design, media and storytelling came together to convey
the importance of responsible fashion.

However, although Watson’s outfit managed to capture both the media and the
public eye, the other two outfit designed by Calvin Klein for actresses
Lupita Nyong’o and Margot Robbie did not garner much attention, which in
part can be linked to the medial. When asked how journalists push certain
stories forward during the panel ‘Power of the Media’, Edwina McCann,
Editor-in-Chief for Vogue Australia stressed that “great storytelling and
qualitative journalism” were key factors, as well as certain events, such
as the Met Gala. But storytelling is changing as well, according to Amed,
who believes that reporters and writers alike should be working together
with the industry to tell more “mindful stories” in “user friendly
narratives.“How they tell the stories is how they will get the right
response.” These narratives could be in the form of an Instagram photo
campaign for example, or a Tweet, as long as it is on a platform which is
relatable to the targeted audience. “Stories. That is a word we have heard
a lot today and it’s important. Because stories are the currency of
communication in this world,” stressed Friedman. “A few pages, or 140
characters, or a paragraph or a video that lasts 60 seconds.” She notes the
increasing popular of video platform Snapchat and how it gives its users
the freedom to create their own ‘stories.’

A photo posted by Copenhagen Fashion Summit (@copenhagenfashionsummit) on May 12, 2016 at 8:12am PDT

Stories key to making sustainability sexy

“In all the increasing white noise that is what breaks through. Because
stories create emotions. They help us order the world in an accessible and
immediate way. That is why Rana Plaza is still mentioned today, it put a
human face on a generic supply chain. And no one could forget it.” By
translating the importance of sustainability in a easy to digest way, such
as a comic book for example, or a bedtime story the possibilities of
reaching the intended and unintended target customer is endless, said
Friedman. She acknowledges the difficulties linked to making responsible
fashion look sexy to the public, but highlights the film adaption of
Michael Lewis bestselling book ‘The Big Short’, which revolves around
credit-default swaps and how Hollywood made it into a hit. “That’s what you
need. You need Margot Robbie in a bathtub.” The movie uses the age-old
promise of sex to reel viewers in which is what Friedman thinks the
industry needs to “shock people into paying attention.”

Friedman does admit that the sex angel has been used tirelessly within the
industry with numerous supermodels but suggests using other angels to hook
customers, such as adidas’ Ocean Plastic shoe, which focused on saving the
oceans by using recycled plastic. “Sex and sea life – although neither of
these two ideas are new…It’s not the specifics that is the take away
here, it’s the approach,” concluded Friedman. Both sex and life are
universal concerns that everyone can relate too and connections are made.
“You may think sustainability is a universal concern – but don’t assume the
rest of the world thinks that way. You need to connect that to what they
are care about to make them realise it. Grab the tools of the pop culture
conversation and make you own mitts. Find the hook… the stories are up to
you. But find them and go forth.”

Photos: Copenhagen Fashion Summit