Artistically, there’s always been an appreciation for the male form.
However, when it came to designing clothes, the male form was traditionally
restricted to suiting for most of modern times. Now, designers have decided
that the male form shouldn’t be treating so simply, and are playing with
the proportions of clothes to show that clothes on men doesn’t need to look
so boxy.
First off, there was Garciavelez who created elongated t-shirts, but
emphasized men’s arms and shoulders with slouchy jackets. Designer Carlos
Garciavelez focused the theme of his collection around the idea of decaying
infrastructure in the contemporary American city.
Playing on the idea of decay, seams were exposed and edges were emphasized
wrong, making each piece like wearable infrastructure. It was a whole new
way to think about promotions in clothes, and a particularly original idea
for the up-and-coming designer.
N.P. Elliott emphasized the male form with things like houndstooth wool mix
boxer shorts with side seam pockets and striped wool mix racing back tanks.
Proportions were also played with as they presented items like straight leg
drawstring pants in wool mix houndstooth and mandarin collar printed shirts
that brought attention to the neck.
A photo posted by N-p-Elliott (@npelliott) on Jul 12, 2016 at 10:56pm
PDTRobert Geller was all about proportions, shapes, and movements. The
inspiration for the collection this season was Genial Diletanten, which
translates to Genius Dilettants, which was the title of a 1981 concert.A black floral print cupro jumpsuit put emphasis on the length and
proportions of the male form, specifically arms and legs. Pants were baggy
at the crotch and jacquard sweaters had free silhouettes paired with
brightly colored pants that created interesting layers and shapes to the
outfits.Magenta and black t-shirts were two tone taped creating a bit of a
trompe-loeil affect, which is unusual for men’s wear, but kept Robert
Geller one-of-a-kind.The award for most improved designer goes to Brett Johnson, who really took
his collection up a notch this season. This time around, he made his
collection refined and easy, yet understated.The lineup
#brettjohnsonco #ss17 #NYFWM #cfdaA photo
posted by Brett Johnson Co. (@brettjohnsonco) on Jul 12, 2016 at 5:03pm
PDTThe reimagined silhouettes ,which proposed suiting options for the
millennial man, looked far more expensive, and finally gave him that look
of a luxury brand.Johnson used textured fabrications to inject movement into garments, and
reimagined outerwear styles in relaxed cardigan silhouettes. The take on
proportions will help him appeal to the millennial customer who is looking
for something more relaxed.The era of men’s wear with mundane silhouettes has ended. Designers are
taking advantage of silhouettes and shapes in as many ways as possible.photos via Nouveau PR and C&M Media
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