London – The runway was once the epitome of fashion showcasing. It was on
the catwalk where trends were born, where brands, designers and their
stylists used the platform as its definitive communication tool to present
next season’s collections.
The formula for catwalk presentations has’t changed much since they first
debuted in the early twentieth century: the clothing is illuminated on the
runway by lighting; there is an order in which each model walks out wearing
a specific look: images are made available after the show so the press –
and now also the public – can deconstruct each outfit and place it in the
wider context of the season.
But there has been a seismic shift in fashion, amongst which the
possibility for brands to showcase their collections outside of the runway
medium. Where presentations were once frowned upon and perhaps taken less
seriously then the catwalk, brands and designers are embracing other ways
to communicate their designs to the press and public, from salon
presentations, parties, and digital films to look books, showrooms and
retail events. Even the seasons are changing with brands deciding to merge
their men’s and women’s presentations into one show.
At London Collections Men last week there were 32 catwalk shows, 25
presentations, 55 designers in the Designer Showrooms, 5 digital
presentations and 21 brands hosting events. What can be deduced from the
schedule is that the catwalk is no longer the reigning queen of presenting
fashion, in fact they make up just over half of all that was on show.
Luxury brands including Tommy Hilfiger and Neil Barrett opted for private
events and dinners, Sterling Suits decided to launch their collection in
partnership with a menswear magazine, NEWGEN recipient Bobby Abley opted
for a pop-up presentation, and John Smedley unveiled its latest collection
in sync with its new store opening on Jermyn Street.
Compare this to last season there were 60 designers featured in the
Designer Showrooms at London Collections Men. Of these were 29 brands in
the Ready-to-Wear showroom, 12 brands in the Multi-Label Showroom, 16
brands in the Accessories Showroom in addition to an installation by NEWGEN
MEN.
The increase of presentations allows designers to display their
collection in a more intimate setting as well as engaging with the
audience. It is a way to showcase in an up close and personal atmosphere that
can be curated to any aesthetic. It is often a less costly option then a
catwalk show, yet still has the same reach via social media and press.
Jan Miller, a strategic consultant from the Centre for Fashion Enterprise
told Not Just a Label: “The take up of presentations has been accelerating
recently because the digital environment has allowed it. Before 2000,
catwalks shows were mainly a trade event. Presentations are digital and
screen friendly. They allow for a creative 3D experience, and we’re seeing
them become much more of an art form where the audience can get closer to
the collection and press images are high quality.”
Presentations can also allow designers to focus on creativity and not be
limited by a 10ft wide runway. There are less creative limitations outside
of the catwalk, and with tough competition there is a constant pressure for
brands to impress both on and off the catwalk.
Images: Evans Plus Models, Bridal Catwalk flickr.com, Designer Showrooms Londoncollections.co.uk