Trends can often lead to
some serious fashion faux pas (think Britney and Justin’s take on double
denim); fortunately though, these hiccups are short lived in apparel and
move on with the next trend. However, the moment where one questions “what
was I thinking?” never seems to arrive when it comes to footwear.
Regardless of what is presented on the catwalks, the ‘ugly’ shoe phenomenon
remains, bolstering sales of what is often an extraordinarily comfortable
product that severely lacks in aesthetic design. Crocs and Uggs, for
example, universally acknowledged as unattractive shoes, reported net sales
of 832 million US dollars and 2.0 billion US dollars in 2014, respectively.
What can brands take from these highly successful, albeit unsightly,
footwear trends?
Summer 2015 saw the reappearance of Birkenstocks as a wardrobe staple; the
footwear brand that has long provided grandmas the world over with
appropriate summer sandals now has more fashion credentials than Kate Moss.
Similarly, LL Bean duck boots have been renowned for selling out as the
practical outdoor boot falls back into fashion. Widespread adoption of a
particular product does not always stem from the activities of leading
brands, but rather occur as a result of the cyclical nature of fashion.
Vintage trends and ironic hipster cohorts often take products that were
once painfully unfashionable and make them ‘cool’, as seen with the
resurgence of footwear brand Hush Puppies and alcoholic drinks such as
Bourbon.
While a nod from the fashion industry can propel a brand into the premier
league, generating a spike in revenue, the majority of these footwear
brands perform well year round, and what they all have in common is the
ability to provide consumers with practical, comfortable footwear.
The over-arching macro trend of comfort has long been present in the
footwear industry; however, in recent years, it seems to have become ever
more prevalent with the proliferation of ath-leisure. Lily Allen was
clearly ahead of her time in 2005 by pairing her Nike Air Max 90s with
every outfit; in 2015, sneaker fever has reached an all-time high, as
casual dressing takes on a new role in consumers’ lives. Yoga pants are now
appropriate attire for a trip to Starbucks, and Fashion Week attendees have
shunned skyscraper heels in favour of bunion-proof adidas Stan Smiths.
Sports-inspired footwear increased at a value CAGR of 7 percent over
2009-2014, while the overall footwear category increased at a CAGR of 6
percent over the same period. Additionally, an upsurge in performance-led
products continues to drive growth, as consumers seek technically advanced
products for their everyday activities as well as sports participation. The
functionality and comfort of sports footwear is both desirable and on
trend; this is particularly true for running shoes. The Nike Roshe
collection is now the fashionistas version of the Ugg.
As the industry evolves with the digital age, social media platforms are
not only considered vital advertising tools but now dictate what is
considered fashionable. The ‘ugly’ shoe trend highlights the power and
lucrativeness of mass consumer trends, in comparison to the fads featured
on the fashion catwalks. Images of off-duty models and celebrities wearing
shoes such as Crocs, Uggs and Birkenstocks are no longer restricted to
gossip magazines, but rather posted on social media by individuals
themselves.
Platforms such as Instagram are filled with user-generated content and
street style images that appear far more authentic than advertising
campaigns and allow the user to dictate the narrative by detailing the
benefits of wearing a particular product. Endorsement by high-profile
celebrities will certainly generate a significant amount of brand exposure;
however, beyond that, much of these brands’s commercial success is due to
their unprecedented comfort level, which is something for footwear brands
to keep in mind.
By: Bernadette Kissane, Apparel and Footwear Analyst at Euromonitor
International
Image Credit: Crocs website, Ugg’s website and Birkenstock AW15 campaign