Now that the men’s autumn winter 2016 collections have been shown on the
world’s leading catwalks, the direction for next season has been unveiled.
More importantly, what we saw on the catwalks in Paris, Milan and London,
was a reinvention of the paragons of menswear: Collections are at once
retro and contemporary, utilitarian and luxurious, classic and directional.
A sense of creativity and rebellion has emerged in what has been turbulent
times across the globe.
In Paris we saw tailoring softened as volume was increased. Fabrics are of
luxurious drape and a cinematic 1960s feel takes over from the 1970s as a
touchstone for retro inspiration. In Milan this was outed as 70s-chic.
Youth culture, especially a punk mentality, inspires a creative and
subversive mood. Americana gets a quirky makeover, deconstructed and
re-proportioned for a new aesthetic.
The theme of utility that started in London carried on through Milan and
finally Paris, culminating through references and detailing, such as
garment panels, seen at Sacai, inside-out pocket details, seen at Louis
Vuitton, to give next season a futuristic edge. Layered styling combines
both tailored and casual elements for versatility, held together and
controlled by prominent compression and adjustment straps, as seen at Craig
Green in London and Dries van Noten in Paris.
While the 70s prevailed in London and Milan, the idea of dressing up in a
less structured and looser silhouette continued in Paris, emphasising a
simplicity of the garments. A classic colour palette of black, grey and
navy features subtle yet unusual retro highlights.
Layered nomad-influenced styling is a key trend next season, with intricate
graphic pattern placements to define a fashion-conscious amalgamation of
Western trapper and Native American-inspired looks, as seen Artfully
crafted materials, repairs and embellishments, and the luxurious, lived-in
feel of the garments are key to this premium incarnation.
The convergence of trend stories have made for some clear key item and
styling directions, of which a modern minimalism defines the season so far.
An opulence in fabrics stands out and is taken to the next level and
military even sporty looks exhibit a sense of refinement underpinned by
exceptional tailoring, as seen at Les Hommes in Milan, Burberry in London,
and Dior Homme in Paris.
Interesting is the focus on quality from leading design houses, where
pared-down simplicity is still very much about luxury. Comfort comes to the
fore as one of the most desirable facets of the best that money can buy.
Long may this trend continue.