London – A catwalk show presented by a luxury fashion house steeped in heritage is
more often than not a proposition to a way of dressing. It is not advisable
to take each look as literal. At Gucci, with its layers of styling tinged
with 70s references and Woodstock, it is about dissecting these layers, to
find pieces to elevate our wardrobes and for consumers to make them their
own.
Because in menswear, brocade suiting, embroidered silk pyjamas, a pussy-bow
shirt and lustrous gold footwear, remains commercially tricky. Neither the
average man on the street nor those dipping their toe into the fashion
pool, would look very convincing in head-to-toe catwalk Gucci.
“An assemblage of fragments,” underpinned the philosophical statement that
constitute Gucci’s show notes each season, or as Creative Director
Alessandro Michele stated backstage, “The ’70s is the most powerful image,
for me, for the brand. The brand has a soul—and its soul is really that
kind of ’70s moment.”
That 70s vibe came out in longside lurex knits, snakeskin suits, heels
embedded with pearls, and sunglasses encrusted with crystal. An overload of
decoration that appears to be gender neutral on the catwalk.
If the Gucci of today is meant to be genderless, seasonless, mixing casual
with haute fashion than this collection is too much and never enough. The
fur-trimmed slippers, pussy-bow blouse, velvet robes and luxe tracksuits
have become staples and Michele sought not to re-invent but to add to what
is working now.
There are always murmurs post show that what is presented has been seen
before. Almost a year to the day when Michele was installed as creative
head of the brand, this is his third menswear show. The Gucci-effect has
been widely copied and the geek-chic look remains a high street favourite.
With many of the buyers and press dressed in full Gucci mode, it looks as
if Michele’s sensibility is here to stay. Deconstructing the looks, there
were plenty of Gucci basics that are covetable, such as block-coloured
tailoring in blues, greens and yellows, or a pair of cropped blue bootcut
trousers worn with a white T-shirt. Or a silk bomber with an embroidered
dragon print, if you’re feeling adventurous.
Images:Gucci AW16