Ever since the Council of Fashion Designers of America launched New York
Fashion Week: Men’s, a standalone showcase for American men’s fashion, the
world’s fashionable eyes have been tuned to the northern hemisphere. Over
the past five years the men’s market has seen greater growth then
womenswear, with a men’s only fashion week being the next logical step in
what is now a near 65 billion dollar annual industry. Below FashionUnited’s top 5
highlights of New York Men’s Fall ’16 collections:
Public School stayed true to their name, allowing both consumers – ‘the
public’ – and press and buyers attend their AW16 catwalk show.The designers
took inspiration from Nicolas Roeg’s 1976 film, The Man Who Fell to Earth,
starring the late David Bowie, as an alien who wanders the Earth in search
of water for his home planet. Staging the show both inside and outside, was
a clever usage of theme, but the real impression were the clothes, which
were a dream in outerwear: zip-up blazers, bomber jackets and utility
prints. Heavily quilted separates and Velcro closures on oversized
outerwear reinforced a protectionist, outdoor-influenced spirit
Rochambeau was inspired by 1990s streetwear, with designers Laurence
Chandler and Joshua Cooper offering urban staples in oversized proportions.
Leather hoodie-style ponchos, varsity fleeces and puffa vests were paired
with wide-leg shorts and Nike Air Force One sneakers. A blend of corduroy,
nylon and velour created a modern-retro theme.
The novel The Grey Gentlemen (a story of men in grey suits who come to a
small town to suck the colour out of locals) inspired the moody
dark-to-light palette of Robert Geller’s collection. Loose, urban
silhouettes were bathed in deepest black to neutral ecru shades, followed
by hues of aubergine, plum and mustard. Subtle textures elevated looks;
tailoring was rendered in mohair while outerwear boasted a satin-infused
sheen.
Daisuke Obana looked to strenuous situations and the kind of climates that
push the limits of the human condition when designing his A/W 16/17
collection. A collaboration with outdoor brand Mountain Hardwear saw
technical blend materials meet signatures such as oversized bomber-inspired
silhouettes and collarless jackets. A cool palette of grey through to black
was highlighted with pops of hazard orange and fluoro brights.
“Uncomplicated luxury” were key words cited by Billy Reid as put aside his
vivacious textile development to present something more refined this
season. Soft silhouettes and sophisticated volumes were rendered in a
buttery, neutral palette while fabrics looked natural, raw and nubby.
Lightly constructed topcoats and loosely tailored trousers added a sense of
movement, while inside-out styling brought a contemporary twist.