New York – The final day of New York Fashion Week: Men’s saw brands like Hickey
Freeman, Todd Snyder, Siki Im, and Kenneth Ning leaving everyone with an
excellent taste in their mouths.
First up for the day was Kenneth Ning, who opted for a dark color palette
this season with plenty of blacks and grey, but didn’t disappoint his
customers. While many are used to the designer doing a lot of ostentatious
color like in previous season’s collections, offerings like long mac coats
with metal details still quenched the thirst of those lusting after
out-of-the-box offerings. The collection, titled “Revenge,” had a strong
sense of originality because they broke away from the traditional concepts
of men’s tailoring.
Jackets with metal grommets, oversized zippers, and capes were all to be
found, and any sense of the traditional was lost. For Ning, whose primary
clients come from Japan, these deconstructed avante-garde garments are very
popular in the East Asian market right now, so he knows how to hit home
with his customer.
Then, of course, there was also men’s wear master Siki Im. It’s no secret
that Im loves the gothic, and that was apparent with his color choices of
black, burgundy, and purple. If his collection from last season was any
indication, he loves things that are drapey and drop crotch pants. The drop
crotch is making its return to menswear, but the designer isn’t one for
trends, he does his own thing. In 2015, the designer won the International
Woolmark Prize, and while he’s usually very known for his structured
designs, he has become interested in designs more inspired by all of New
York’s boroughs.
That motif came through with offerings like baggy pants and the use of so
much black.
On the other hand, there were those designers who rewinded back in time to
the classics for their collection. Hickey Freeman was one such designer,
with the majority of his collection worthy of a Mad Men episode. The brand
proves time and time again that if you want quality luxurious tailoring,
their Madison Avenue boutique is the place you want to head.
The collection was broken down into three sections. Highlands, the Strand,
and Greenwich.
Highlands was creative director Arnold Brant Silverstone’s take on the
Scottish Highland’s, and included suits in plaids and houndstooth, and
dinner jackets in paisley jacquard. While Scotland is not exactly viewed as
a fashion capital, Silverstone reminded us that those Scots certainly do
have some dapper elements to their clothing.
The Strand was a few years ahead of the Mad Men era and took us back to
those old school Wall Street days with big pinstripes and perfectly
positioned lapels. Silverstone revealed that the brand will be opening a
new store at Brookfield Place in the coming season, and New York customers
will certainly be headed there to get their hands on the pieces from the
Greenwich section come fall.
Greenwich was obviously the most contemporary New York themed of them all,
with offerings like a cashmere overcoat with a vicuna collar, cashmere
joggers, and a cotton-cashmere corduroy suit. Silverstone never disappoints
with his elevated tastes, and knows how to keep his customer satisfied.
The man in charge of the finale for New York Fashion Week: Men’s was Mr.
Todd Snyder. The designer presented a whopping total of 48 looks for his
collection, and showed his talents for mixing tailored clothing with
utilitarian outerwear. Last year, the brand was acquired for 11 million
dollars by American Eagle.
This new influx of cash will make it possible for Snyder to take his brand
to the next level, although with the great offerings, it’s a wonder what
will be the next card up his sleeve.
There as no shortage of excellent outerwear with a stylish set of parks,
quilted jackets, and toggle coats. There was also joggers and suiting
trousers with a lower than average dropped crotch. While Snyder easily
gravitates between formal and casual wear successful, he’s not one for very
tight silhouettes. He’s more of the laid back American guy with style,
which translated well through this collection.
While there was no shortage of glamour this week, the final day of NYFW:
Men’s reminded us that while American menswear is different from Milan or
Paris, it is never to be ignored. The designers of this week brought their
A game to the runways for another excellent week of menswear.
photos:via FashionGPS