High-street heavy weights Next and H&M have admitted to discovering
children Syrian refugees working in Turkish garment factories they source
from and have taken the appropriate course of action. However, although a
handful of high-street retailers are tackling the issues regarding Syrian
refugees in their supply chains, many more seem have turned a blind eye to
cases of child labour, low wages and sexual abuse in their supply chains.
The recent plight of child labour was brought to light after a survey
conducted by corporate responsibility watch-dog Business and Human Rights
Resource Centre (BHRRC) amongst 28 garment brands which source from Turkey
was published. As one of the largest manufacturers of clothing, Turkey
produces fashion for a number of UK high-street labels including Topshop,
Asos, Burberry and Marks & Spencer.
In its survey the BHRRC aimed to examine the working conditions of Syrian
refugees, as an estimated 250,000 to 400,000 refugees are said to be
working illegally in the country to make ends met – making them vulnerable
to abuse. Over 2.5 million Syrian refugees are estimated to be residing in
Turkey and work for less than the national minimum wage of 1,300 Turkish
lira per month (309 pounds, which includes children.
Although H&M and Next revealed in the survey to the BHRRC they had
identified Syrian child labour in their suppliers factories during 2015 and
took concerted action to protect them, 14 out of the 28 apparel brands
questioned either failed to respond or issued short statements, which did
not highlight any plans of action. With only a handful of brands taking
decisive action to protect refugees in their supply chain the BHRRC warns
that refugees may remain “out of sight, out of mind.”
Brands including Arcadia Group, Asos, Bhs, Burberry, Debenhams, Hugo Boss,
Marks & Spencer, New Look and Superdry declined to respond to the
questionnaire and replied with brief statements on their approach to supply
chain management and refugees. Only three brands, Next, Inditex and White
Stuff had specific policy communications with suppliers adressing the
treatment of refugees.
“The treatment of Syrian refugees in their supply chains is a litmus test
for high street brands’ concern for human rights in the clothes they sell
across Europe,” said Phil Bloomer, executive director of Business & Human
Rights Resource Centre in a statement. “It is also the key way that
business can contribute to solving the refugee crisis. Yet for many,
refugee workers are out of sight, out of mind. The fact that a small number
of brands, like Next, White Stuff, and C&A, are taking decisive action
highlights the need for other brands to step up and do the same.”
4 brands admitted they had found Syrian refugees working in their supplier
factories, including Primark and C&A, whilst brands such as Arcadia Group,
Adidas, Burberry, Nike and Puma stated that during their audits carried out
in 2015, no undocumented Syrian refugees were found. Next, which has been
praised by the group for its action plan, also found adult Syrian refugees
working in its suppliers factories and followed its plan to protect them
from dismissal and exploitation.
The BHRRC stressed that although the Turkish government’s decision last
month to issued more work permits for Syrian refugees would reduce work
exploitation, many refugees working within the garment industry are likely
to “remain illegal.” The group urged all brands to undertake their own
action plans, carry out more unannounced audits beyond their first tier
supply factories and to communicate with local trade unions as well as
non-government organisations that work with refugees.
“The civil war in Syria has presented exceptional circumstances for brands
sourcing from Turkey. ETI member brands have taken action and collaborated
around ethical standards, including lobbying the government on work permits
and engaging with their suppliers, but it is clear that more still needs to
be done,” added Martin Buttle, Apparel & Textiles Lead at Ethical Trading
Initiative. ”Refugees, particularly women, have a right to fair and equal
treatment in the workplace and factories must remain free from child
labour. That requires additional government and company action.”