Paris Men’s Fashion Week – Day 2

In Paris, the shows must go on, despite the topic of Brexit on every
editor’s lips. On day two of men’s fashion week the buzz of the Balenciaga
show from the previous day had worn off and it was a day of heavyweights on
the Parisian catwalks, including Dries van Noten and Rick Owens, who set
the tone for the season. Below our round-up of the day:

Louis Vuitton

The essence of the Louis Vuitton label is travel, and men’s Design Director
Kim Jones knows how to inject luxury into the modern-day traveler. It
started with exotic skins in crocodile and ostrich, of which the very first
trench coat and matching travel bag were adorned. Striking mohair sweaters
with checked trousers offered the Vuitton customer casual weekend options.
Coats came with a two-button closure, draped loosely around open shirts and
trousers cut for comfort. There was a safari aspect too
​, a signature inspiration in Jones’ handwriting, which saw a sleeveless
trench in khaki and belted jacket in the same fabric, but with skewed
pocket detailing. It wouldn’t be Louis Vuitton without a heap of
accessories, which for spring summer saw the return of the backpack, a
70s-style duffer bag and of course the much-loved Valise trunks.

Rick Owens

Some designers have the power to change with each season, like a seismic
shift in fashion. Rick Owens is one of these designers, who not only
challenges convention, but also remains pure to his brand and his
instincts. Commercial viability is neither a goal nor a necessity. The
draped robes with unfinished hems are undoubtedly not a focus for retail
but they depict a telling story. If there was a silhouette that came to the
fore, it was of wide-legged trousers, seen in satin, silk and other
structured lightweight fabrics. They were complex in cut, teamed with
neatly fitted bomber jackets or Harringtons, or else worn with swathes of
fabric expertly draped over the model’s chest. There was an unfinished
quality to show, but not the quality of the clothes themselves. These are
always impeccable.

Dries van Noten

At Dries van Noten there is always an artisan quality to his choices of
fabric and colour, crafted rich with embroidery and embellishment, this
season it summoned images of summering in faraway places like India, or at
least far enough away from the EU doom and gloom this week.

The striking bleached coat in the first exit laid a foundation for a poetic
collection of clothes for a global wanderer, both whimsical and wearable.
Deconstructed camouflage, interspersed with contrast fabric felt modern.
Already camouflage has seen a return at Valentino, and will be a big story
for SS17. There was a distinct seventies vibe in the knitwear, where brown
tones dominated the palette. The last 10 looks featured mostly navy
garments, from lightweight, full length outerwear to a beautiful patchwork
luxe bomber.