After ongoing speculation, PVH Corp. is rumored to be announcing the
appointment of Raf Simons to the creative director position at Calvin Klein
this week. The speculation as to where Simons would be going has gone on
for nine months ever since he abruptly left Dior in October. The
appointment was quickly becoming the worst kept secret in fashion.
It was reported last November that Simons was being tapped to become
creative director at Calvin Klein.
Speculation that Simons would be stepping into the role was further fueled
when women’s artistic director Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli as the
creative director of men’s.
There was a time limit on Simons stepping into any new role however. His
contract with Dior included a non-compete agreement that wasn’t set to
expire until last July. However, the designer had already relocated to New
York last month and has reportedly begun meetings with key staff members at
Calvin Klein.
Calvin Klein himself even hinted at Simons’ appointment last month in an
interview with Sirius XM Radio saying: “They won’t announce [who it is]
publicly because it’s under contract. But the whole industry knows.”
Simons, who stepped down from Dior last October, cited “personal reasons”
as the reason for his departure. His last collection for the brand bowed
spring 2016. Simons and Dior described the separation as amicable after
they couldn’t reach an agreement on a new employment contract.
He continues to show his own eponymous label in Paris.
The designer, who is known for his minimalist tastes, was on more than
one occasion critiqued for being too much of a minimalist for Dior, is
considered a better fit for Calvin Klein than he was for Dior.
At Dior, Simons oversaw women’s wear, haute couture, and accessories. His
role at Calvin Klein will be even bigger as he will oversee men’s and
women’s underwear, fragrances, jeans, accessories, and men’s and women’s
collections. He may also have a hand in Calvin Klein’s advertising and
other creative avenues. According to sources, the designer will be paid a
salary of 20 million dollars.
Simons is expected to help propel the 8 billion dollar brand to the 10
billion dollar mark.
“What Raf does really well is he’s been able to take the DNA of the brand
and he’s been able to modernize it. His track record and his history have
proven that he has an incredible eye and talent to bring the past and the
future together,” Roopal Patel, senior vice president and fashion director
at Saks Fifth Avenue, said last month to WWD. “Raf is not a one-note
designer and that was really exhibited at his time at Dior.”
In 2003 when Calvin Klein sold the company to PVH, the responsibilities of
the business were divided among multiple creative directors. Aside from
Costa and Zucchelli, Kevin Carrigan was named global creative director of
CK Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, and Calvin Klein White Label. Carrigan
will be continuing in his role. Ulrich Grimm, creative director of Calvin
Klein men’s and women’s shoes and accessories, and Amy Mellen, creative
director of home, will also be continuing in their roles. It is believed
they will all report to Simons.
“They are doing something that I had hoped they would have done, which is
replace me. Find someone who can, with a singular vision, oversee
everything that is creative,” said Klein in his Sirius XM interview.
photo via YouTube