Indian designer Suket Dhir has been crowned as the winner of the 2015/2016
Men’s International Woolmark Prize during a event held at the second day of
Italian menswear trade fair Pitti Uomo, from a group of hailing from across the globe.
Designing under the name of his eponymous label Suketdhir, the 35-year old
Indian designer brings together the best of classic western tailoring
together with design elements from his own country and national dress, such
as oversized silhouettes and lightweight, breathable fabrics. “My
collection explores the trans-seasonal aspects of wool and the alchemic
transformation of the fibrous wool into smooth, silk-like yarn, which
renders the fabric light, airy, fluid and yet full and supple,” explained
Suketdhir, who places innovation at the heart of his collection for the
competition.
His winning collection for the International Woolmark Prize, entitled
Cultural Fusion, was singled out thorugh an unanimous decision, according
to the judging panel which included designer Haider Ackermann, internation
editor for Vogue Suzy Menkes and chief executive at Pitti Immagine
Raffaello Napoleone. “For me, it wasn’t a hard decision,” said designer
Haider Ackermann. “Suket is a person with a dream to tell, and I thought
that it was very beautiful, because fashion at this time is about a dream,
and the rest – the business – will follow. And technically, he showed us
details I’ve never seen before, and that’s very impressive.”
“What Suketdhir designs is romantic, and that’s very appealing in fashion,
and certainly was to the judging panel,” added Stuart McCullough, Managing
Director of The Woolmark Company. “All of the designers will no doubt go on
to great commercial success in all parts of the world, but we can only name
one winner, and today romance won.” Suket Dhir used traditional techniques
of hand-toed and dyed yarn (ikat) together with traditional hand embroidery
known as kasui to create geometric, grid-like patterns with an ombre effect.
“This is certainly very overwhelming, and everything that I needed right
now,” said the designer following the announcement that he was the winner.
“I’ve done what I could in India, and this is the best thing that could
happen to me, for me to move in a bigger way. I think I’m ready for the
world, and I also think the world is ready for me and for this kind of
aesthetic. The look is easy and happy, and the world needs that right now.”
The designer founded his label in 2010 and has been developing a steady
presence in his home country, but due to lack of funds has been unable to
expand his brand presence outside of India. As the winner of the second
International Woolmark Prize for menswear, Suket Dhir is set to receive
10,000 AU dollars to help support the ongoing development of his business
as well as mentor support from industry expert. In addition, his collection
for the competition will be presented and showcased in a number of
department stores across the globe, including Saks Fifth Avenue in New
York, 10 Corso Como in Milan and MatchesFashion.com online.
“In fashion, I’m always looking for emotion, for the heartbeat, for the
feeling that something excites me – it may come from an ancient skill but
it seems fresh to me,” said Suzy Menkes on Suket Dhir collection.
Photos: The International Woolmark Company