Fashion week always ends on a high note, not because it marks the end of
four weeks, four cities and hundreds of shows and most editors are no
longer compos mentis, but because the month-long catwalk season finishes in
Paris, the city where the world’s most beautiful clothes are seen on the
runway.
Spring Summer 2016 was a particularly strong season for British designers
in Paris, with Alexander McQueen, Chloé, Céline and Stella McCartney all
showing formidable collections cementing their status as bonafide companies
and designers amongst the world’s fashion heavyweights.
Alexander Mcqueen’s SS16 presentation was exquisite, a veritable ode to the
House’s craftsmanship, paralleling extreme darkness and lightness. Designer
Sarah Burton translated darkness in the embroidery, and light in sheer
fabrics, delicate florals and all-over feminine delicacy. Silhouettes were
mostly floorsweeping gowns, highlighted with ruffles or embroidered with
dove motifs.
Another House that knows painstaking craftsmanship is Valentino, who this
season moved from its homebase of inspiration in Rome to Africa. The same
route, perhaps, that is taken by migrants. Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri
and Pierpaolo Piccioli stated: “This is the time to see the integration of
different cultures, to create new balances.” Africa was a particular focus,
with columnar silhouettes featuring colourful patchworks, intricate bead
embroideries and wild textures. Leather work added a tough edge, layered
over printed dresses or cut in strips featuring studs.
Antique brocades, jacquards and satin mixed with clashes of purple, yellow,
blue, and watermelon, it was retro yet contemporary at Dries van Noten. No
other designer can pull off eccentricity with his mix of sartorial
silhouettes and vibrant prints.
Raf Simons at Dior went serene this season. Layer upon layer of sheers,
scalloped undergarments in delicate cotton organdie came in cami knickers
and matching chemise tops working as the foundation throughout the
collection. These were worn beneath embroidered clouds of striped sheers
and tailored jackets, which were awash with decisive pleats.
Phoebe Philo at Céline was interested in a traveling woman’s wardrobe. If
you were to pack a suitcase for a year, what would you need and take? Philo
proposed oversized checked trousers and lace-trimmed slips and utilitarian
outerwear as staples. She explained back stage: “I’m very interested in
understanding how different clothes make us feel, and I started to think
about a slightly strange wardrobe. Those clothes for me are as if you were
to go on a year-long voyage, you could just pack it all and use it in all
the different places you might visit. The collection is a bit like the
tent, which can be folded and packed up.”
Stella McCartney has carved a niche for herself with her take on luxury
sportswear. This season there were tablecloth checks and bright colours,
with pleated layering and spliced polo dresses. The mood was relaxed and
modern, and desirably wearable.
Alexander Wang took his final bow at Balenciaga, showing a collection
entirely in ivory, invoking a purist and quiet exit. This was lingerie
dressing at its most edgy and street with plenty of Balenciaga-esque
detailing: Slips, bras and nightdresses came shirred, ribboned and ruched,
juxtaposed with sporty nuances. It will be interesting to see how Demna
Gvasalia of Vetements, Balenciaga’s new Artistic Director, will take the
reigns going forward.
Lanvin showed an incredible lineup of 70 looks, featuring everything from a
plain white shirt and black trousers, to whimsical dresses, mannish
tailoring, tweedy dresses and red carpet high fashion. Designer Alber Elbaz
told Vogue that working last year on a museum exhibition about founder
Jeanne Lanvin and subsequent displays of his own oeuvre, made him think
about all the different ideas he has had previously, culminating in one of
his most dynamic collections to date.
At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière took his audience on a journey “where
the only limit is the imagination”. The collection played on contrasts:
masculine versus feminine, haute versus humble, retro versus futuristic.
Studding, beading and metallic embroidery punctuated futuristic undertones,
while 16th-century bubble skirts and high necks merged with languid
jumpsuits and oversized bombers, seamlessly blending the old and new.
Images: Paris Fashion Week SS16