For years, Colombia has been working hard to shed its former reputation.
Once commonly thought of as the world’s capital of cocaine, with the
Medellin drug cartel led by the infamous Pablo Escobar and the FARC rebels
guerrillas painting the streets red, this aged image of a country which is
currently South America’s third largest economy has left its mark. However,
for the past decade, Colombia has been taking huge steps to improve both
its political and economical stability which has helped give consumers a
much needed boost in purchasing power.
With its capital city of Bogota developing into the one of the top cities
to do business in Latin America, its textiles and apparel markets has been
highlighted as one of the key economic contributors to the country.
According to Euromonitor International, the sector is set generate 870
million US dollars between 2013-2018, driven by events such as fashion
trade fair ColombiaTex and ColombiaModa, the country’s biggest fashion
week.
Although Medellin is more commonly thought of as the country’s capital of
fashion, consumers in Bogota hold the power of purchase, with 37.6 percent
of the country’s fashion being consumed there, which is one of the reasons
that Inexmoda, the institute for fashion and exportation, felt that it was
time to focus on building Bogota’s fashion industry through a new consumer
event:
Through BCapital, aims to reconnect the city’s locals, known as
‘bogotanos’ with their fashion system, which is fuelled by local designers
and retailers such as Olga Piedrahita, Studio F, Arturo Calle and Mario
Hernandez. However, there is an slew emerging designers who studied abroad
but are keen to leave their mark on both the national and national
industry. Whilst presenting their collections at BCapital, FashionUnited
took a moment to speak to two upcoming designers, Andrea Landa and Lorena
Cuevas from Mulierr to learn more about their thoughts on the Colombian
fashion industry and BCapital.
Andrea Landa was born in Medellin and grew up in her mother’s atelier where
she created items for her fashion accessories company Ana Maria Aguirre
Accesorios. After graduating from high school, she decided to Europe to
pursue her studies and 2009 she moved to London to study fashion design at
the Istituto Marangoni, graduating in 2012 with an award for best graduate
collection. However, rather than remaining in London to establish her
brand, she decided to return to Medellin to establish her brand, Andrea
Landa Fashion Workshop – why?
“Well, I had been studying and living abroad in Europe for a long time. By
the time I completed my second course/degree of studies I decided to return
home for a few months to see what it was like,” explained Landa, who spent
close to 8 years in Europe. “Shortly after I arrived, I was invited to show
my label at an expo show and participate in their fashion show.” She
presented her first collection, named ‘We Grew up with Folks Tales’ at the
Cali Expo in 2013 and since then her brand has continued to grow.
“After the show people began to contact me who were interested in selling
my designs, or asking where they could buy them. My mother came on board to
help me with the label later on and helped sourced the machinery and types
of leather I would need to make my visions come to life. So I stayed in
Colombia and founded the brand from there, hiring 5 local garment workers
who all had experience with leather to work in my atelier.” Her designs
incorporate traditional Colombian handicraft techniques which have been
reworked in a more refined and elegant way to create a more ‘high-fashion’
look.
“From my studies and time living in Europe, I developed a more Euro-centric
vision as well as a darker look on fashion in comparison to fashion in
Latin America which is quite bright. But it was whilst I was living abroad
that I was able to really to admire and appreciate the Colombian
handicrafts for what they were and respect all the work that goes into it.
I began to see it as the artform it was and was able to combine my sense of
style, handicrafting and the material I grew up with – leather – into my
collection.”
Lorena Cuevas and Paola Tarazona, the design duo who make up the label
known as Mulierr, decided to join forces after studying abroad at SCAD in
the US and Istituto Marangoni in London. “I originally went to study in the
States because of the way they handle the teaching of the arts. The schools
in the US and EU are completely different from the schools in Colombia,
which in my opinion lack good educational courses focusing on creative
arts,” explained Cuevas. ”Today art is taught as a translative medium, you
study the topics in so much depth that expands your mind and puts you into
contact with completely different worlds.”
Founded in Bogota in 2012, Mulierr was born of their dual love of fashion
and art. “We asked ourselves how do we paint on fabrics like they are
canvases in a way that is not obvious and decided to start weaving and
embroidering our own fabrics. And from there the brand was found. We
combined our vision with artisanal crafts to create something very
conceptual. The label, which combines traditional Colombian handicrafts
such as weaving and embroidery, is inspired by geometry and textures which
flatter the female form.
Mulierr, which means ‘women’ in Latin, also generates opportunities for
single mothers and women with physical disabilities by hiring them to weave
and product their designs, which are made with ‘100 percent Colombian
Love.’ “It was exactly because Paola and I studied abroad that we wanted to
create something that defined us as Colombian designers, supported the
local industry as well as opened up the doors to launching in other
International markets as well. Something that is relatable to the person no
matter where they are.”
The design duo seem to be achieving their goal – Mulierr is set to showcase
its Spring/Summer ‘16 collection at the upcoming Los Angeles Fashion Week,
the first international showcase for the upcoming label. However, Cuevas
praises Inexmoda and BCapital for offering the label is first chance to
host a fashion show. “Showing at BCapital was an incredible experience for
us and we are very grateful to Inexmoda and the event for all the support
they offered us,” said Cuevas.
“We are emerging designers and I really think that what Inexmoda and
BCapital put together to support young and established designers in
Colombia is amazing. It was something the city really needed – a fashion
event that also incorporates other aspects of the Colombian lifestyle
whilst representing the city – you could see that it was created for
Bogota. It was really magical for us to hold a fashion show here. I hope
that BCapital continues on for many years because it is a real event that
the city needs.”
Landa agrees with Cuevas, stressing that BCapital was just what the doctor
ordered to revitalise the fashion industry in Bogota. “I think a new
fashion fair, like BCapital is what this city needed. Especially with the
backing of Inexmoda, it helped emerging designers like me really connect
with the local bogotanos. The venues was great, the vibe was great, the
audience who came, everything was great. I received a lot of compliments
concerning my designs and many people inquired where they could buy my
collection, which was incredible.”
Both designers believe that the other upcoming designers presenting their
collections at BCapital show great promise for the future of the Colombian
fashion industry. “I really think that the other designers who presented
their collections here are incredible,” said Cuevas. “They all had a unique
vision, are young, a refreshing outlook – really innovative and are showing
great promise.”
“I think the fashion industry is doing extremely well here,” added Landa.
“I can see that we are pushing the boundaries whilst supporting new and
upcoming designers who are young and need help setting up their brands. But
the brands that I see starting out are special in the sense that they
honour their Colombian heritage and roots but also have a very avant-garde
yet international and global outlook at the same time.”