London – The hashtag #MadeinItaly says it all. Milan designers presented collections
that are the last word in craftsmanship. Exquisite tailoring, extravagant
embroideries and lashings of fur show that Milan’s designers embrace true
design offering everything from historical romanticism to youthful
vibrancy. Here are the top trends of Milan Fashion Week:
Designers reference historical details and silhouettes in a romantic
approach to the season. Renaissance-inspired dresses, coats and lavish
embroideries, along with opulent brocades and sumptuous velvets, are
reminiscent of past eras. Hand-sewn jewels, ruffles and decorative trims
infuse fabrics with a wistful, romantic air, as seen at Gucci and Roberto
Cavalli.
London doesn’t own the USP when it comes to newness in fashion. There was
plenty of references to youth culture and its contemporary aesthetic, such
as vibrant play of bright hues and print-clashing styles as seen at Pucci
and Versace.
Fashion runs through Italy’s veins, as seen by its evolving minimalist
aesthetic. Fusing impeccable Italian craftsmanship with feminine shapes,
designers approach patterning with abstract cuts and folds, as seen at Jil
Sander and Sport Max. Luxurious materials and refined attention to detail
imbue traditional tailoring with a one-of-a-kind sensibility.
A return to eclecticism and a need for pronounced individuality emerge.
Designers have journeyed the globe, collecting beloved pieces from their
travels and mixing them in offbeat pairings juxtaposed with gold brocades,
sartorial cloths, military details and fur trims, as seen at Prada and
Etro. Extravagant jewellery appears in a tantalising collection of
elaborate pieces.
Continuing from New York and London, black once again emerges as a strong
colour direction for A/W 16/17. Applied on a variety of textures such as
chintzed wool, mesh, velvet and silk, texture adds surface interest and
transforms the all-black look into an elegant statement, as seen at Bottega
Veneta and Ports 1961.
A photo posted by Bottega Veneta Official (@bottegaveneta) on Feb 29, 2016 at 9:10am PST
Fur, lace, brocade, velvet, metallics and men’s checks were some of the
resounding fabrics seen on the Milan catwalks. Metallic threads and liquid
velvet were used for daytime, while ornamental brocades deliver a
modern-historical feel with an air of opulence. Fur came printed, shaved
and panelled, mostly as detailing on collars, sleeves and shoulders.
As fur and faux fur dominate the catwalks of Milan, full fur coats and
jackets become quintessential pieces for the season. Designers update looks
with patchwork piecing and full pelt panelling, creating dynamic
silhouettes with a directional feel, as seen at Tod’s, Fendi and Blumarine