Versace’s Versus brings swagger to London Fashion Week

Under low lights and with a pumping
soundtrack, bright young things wearing black leather and slouchy ripped
denim
put some swagger into London Fashion Week, courtesy of Donatella Versace.
The Italian designer showed her diffusion line Versus in a club-like
atmosphere for a typically tough and sexy collection brimming with
attitude.

There were cutaway dresses exposing the shoulder and stomach, with a
silver
zip running down the back, and pleated and leather mini-skirts — one with
the
belt left provocatively open — matched with leather jackets.
Bonded mesh dresses and crop tops brought a sporty edge to the
collection,
which also featured cropped, zip-up bomber jackets, military-style knits and
washed out ripped denim with metal and crystals sparkling underneath.

#VersusTakesLDN – #VersusVersace Spring Summer 2017 show
#LFW

A photo posted by
versus_versace (@versus_versace) on Sep 17, 2016 at 3:30pm
PDT

“This is about everything real. It’s about how the Versus Versace
generation live their lives, and the wardrobe that gives them power,”
Versace
said in a press statement.
Earlier in the evening, British designer Gareth Pugh took a more
conceptual
approach with a show built around the narrative of an opera for which he has
made the costumes, and which opened in Paris on Friday.

“Eliogabalo” tells the story of a tyrant in imperial Rome, a
self-proclaimed sun god who was represented in the London show in a
repeating
pattern of the sun and its rays that stretched across dresses, coats and
trousers.
To the sound of loud drums beating, the first model emerged with a large
sun behind her head, followed by others wearing black coats with a mosaic of
gold triangles arranged at the breast and hems.

‘Two sides of the same’

They were followed by unadorned, flowing gowns in vivid purple and
then
white, toga-style dresses, styled with lace-up leather boots and headdresses
reminiscent of burnt wood.

“In one way the sun is a symbol of creation and warmth — an
explosion of
power and life — but it can also represent tyrannical power and
destruction,”
Pugh said.
“I wanted to explore that duality, to show two sides of the same, but for
grace to triumph over nature.”

Saturday also saw the eagerly anticipated show by Northern Irish
designer
Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of Spanish fashion house Loewe who
has his own label in London.
There were loose linen dresses, jumpers with oversized rolls of fabric at
the sleeves and hem, and tops inspired by men’s 16th century doublets with
voluminous sleeves and quilting.
But where kings such as Henry VIII had their clothes made in heavy
fabrics,
Anderson’s were in linen or hessian.
“I liked the idea of women wearing something that was so masculine,
something that was really heavy but that is cut out of something incredibly
light,” he told reporters backstage. (AFP)