Celebrities, capes and car parts: AFP rounds
up the best shows from Saturday and Sunday of New York Fashion Week.
Actresses Julianne Moore and Lucy Liu, and Vogue editor-in-chief Anna
Wintour sat front row as Tory Burch showcased floral patterns inspired by
Turkish, English and French porcelain on Sunday.
The fall-winter 2020 collection — unveiled at Sotheby’s — included crepe
dresses with embellished sleeves, a napa leather Sgt Pepper jacket and an
embroidered cotton tulle caftan.
The looks were “punctuated with a strong boot: mid-calf, riding,
over-the-knee; pointed or tapered square toe,” according to the collection
notes, and featured a new Eleanor shoulder bag.
New York artist Francesca DiMattio designed the prints, and models walked
past 11 of her sculptures through five gallery rooms, as American singer Alice
Smith belted out 1960s classic “You Don’t Own Me”.
“They sort of blur the lines of femininity and masculinity,” Burch said of
DiMattio’s designs.
“That’s something I relate to, and all with the nostalgia of pottery,” she
told AFP.
French fashion house Longchamp evoked Paris of the 1970s, as embodied by
the actresses Catherine Deneuve and Romy Schneider, with elegant,
feminine-inspired designs that lit up Fashion Week on Saturday.
Brand ambassador Kendall Jenner looked on as leather Bermuda shorts were
paired with patterned jumpers, blouses and capes, and bomber jackets with
hefty shearling collars lined up alongside gauzy black dresses.
Kate Moss’s daughter Lila Moss was also in attendance, as a burgundy cape
similar to those worn in dystopian TV drama “The Handmaid’s Tale” and colorful
designs inspired by John Chamberlain’s sculptures made out of car parts
paraded past.
Leather, the trademark of the 72-year-old luxury goods brand, mixed with
fur, while Longchamp’s “It bags” included embossed calfskin made to look like
python or crocodile leather.
Creator Sophie Delafontaine said she felt able to take more risks in New
York than when she parades at home in Paris.
“I feel more free in New York. (Being) elsewhere, we go further, we explore
more,” she told reporters.
Bright, bold and sexy were the key words as 26-year-old rising star
Christopher John Rogers displayed his women’s wear for fall-winter of this
year.
The show was fresh off the back of Rogers winning 400,000 US dollars from the Council
of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue Fashion Fund for best up-and-coming
creator in November.
Former winners include Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler and Pyer Moss.
Flowing dresses in striking yellows, oranges, reds and greens mixed with
shiny fabrics and power suits boasting huge shoulders, big puffy sleeves and
plenty of ruffles.
“We like to play with volume. But there’s a new edginess, a trimmer line.
More feeling. A bit sexier than seasons past,” Rogers told Essence magazine.(AFP)
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